If It's Tuesday, This Must Be Belgium
When I was a kid, my parents saw a lot of movies. I think they went almost every Saturday night. I used to love to peek at the scribbled piece of paper they left for the babysitter with the title of the movie they were going to see. One of those titles, which intrigued me, was If it's Tuesday, This Must be Belgium. I asked my mom to explain the meaning to me, and she told me that when many (most in those days?) Americans travel to Europe, they often go on whirlwind tours in which quantity is more important than quality; in their hurry to see it all, they end up losing track of where they are on any given day. That movie looked like such fun to me, and the bonus was that the only other Suzanne I knew - Suzanne Pleshette - was one of the stars.
What does that movie have to do with my life now, you ask? I had the chance to visit Belgium last week, this time as a tourguide of sorts. For my first summer visitor, that is. It's the high point of Visting Our Expat Friends in Amsterdam season, and I'm experiencing this season for the first time. In addition to endless discussions about the weather, expats engage in serious deliberations about houseguests at this time of year. It's the "talk of the town", as the song by The Pretenders reminds us. I remember back in the first blush of the move, when I posted photos of our apartment and shouted out mass invitations (via Facebook) to come visit. Soon my expat friends with more experience sat me down and reminded me of Ben Franklin's famous quote: "Guests like fish begin to smell after three days." The problem, I was told, is that sometimes visitors you hardly knew back in the U.S. will ask to stay, and stay, and stay. When you ask when they plan on leaving, they may reply, like in the song, "Maybe tomorrow. Maybe someday."
Maybe because this is our first year here, I look forward to the short-term emigration of each one of our visitors. I think the visits give me the chance to release my inner teacher and recreate the thrill and agony of field trips as I lead enthusiastic people (stand-ins for my 4th and 5th graders) through the crowded streets of Amsterdam. Recently, I worried that no one would even want to visit, for fear of turning into fodder for this blog. But my teacher-friend Susan was up for the challenge. I broke her in with four days in Amsterdam, before we set off for Belgium. Happily, in keeping with the title of the film, we were there on a Tuesday.
The phrase, "The blind leading the blind" springs to mind when I first thought of leading visitors around. I'm not exactly known for my sharp sense of direction, and I'm a relative newcomer to Amsterdam, after all. Luckily, Susan was content to wander the streets with me, with no particular agenda in mind. And after only two days in Amsterdam, she had the courage (or sheer stupidity) to agree to go off on a bike ride together. Our rear ends were on bike seats for five hours, and Susan lived and walked to tell the tale.
Hosting houseguests thrusts you back into times long ago, when you lived side by side with people who weren't family. In other words, living the expat life transports you back to your camp or college days when you had roommates and had to share bathrooms and flaunt your bad habits in front of each other. As grownups, we usually only go out to dinner with other grownups, and then retreat to our own base camps to safely inflict our peculiar patterns of life on our family and only on our family . Being an expat forces you to spend extended time with friends and family who decamp in your Amsterdam apartment, commingling in the one shower, two toilets, and dollhouse kitchen. So, just like you knew intimate things about your roommates, you certainly know critically important things about your houseguests, like who dumps his belongings all over the place, and how she takes her coffee. Maybe the size of our Amsterdam apartments are the reason so many expats suggest spending a few days here and then hitting the road. And thus, Susan and I headed to Belgium for Part Two of the "blind leading the blind" tour.
In a nutshell, Belgium is about the chocolate, the coffee, the beer, the seafood, and the architecture. So if you don't have time to read the rest of the blog, you now know what I'm going to take several paragraphs and even more photographs to say.
One great thing about Antwerp (or most small cities in Europe, for that matter) is how many people are out and about at night. Every restaurant and bar had outdoor seating, and there were families, groups of studenty-types, and older folks like us (O.K., Susan, like me. Susan is still in her 40's, for another New York minute). It doesn't hurt that it stays light out until nearly 11 p.m.
From Antwerp, we took a short train ride to Bruges. In Belgium, it is called Brugge. Don't get Peter started on why languages insist on changing the perfectly good original names of cities and countries. Can't we just call it Brugge? (and Rome: Roma? etc.). I had been to Bruges (sorry) over 20 years ago, pre-children, and was curious to see if it had changed. Let's just say it has definitely been discovered, although some unexpected hot weather seemed to have kept the tourists confined to the center of town. Once you got outside the chocolate/lace/souvenir center, there were very few people, so we could appreciate the architecture and work up an appetite for some chocolate.
By now, I hope I have convinced you that Belgium (just a two hour train ride away) is a great side trip for you if you visit Amsterdam. I hope I haven't scared you off with Ben Franklin quotes about stinking fish. Actually, when I first read that quote, I gulped when I realized that by that measure, I have stayed with our friends Kate and Howard on my journeys back to the U.S. long enough to decompose in their spare bedroom. So even with the risk of fish stench, when you visit friends in faraway places, there is the chance to spend quality time together and really have the chance to connect in a meaningful way.
Having visitors here gives me the chance to feel like I have settled in, like this place is beginning to feel like home. Since my sense of direction is as poor as my biblical knowledge, I had to go back to find out the source of the "blind leading the blind" reference. It turns out it's from the Book of Luke, and Luke told his followers in a parable: "Can a blind man lead a blind man? Will they not both fall into a pit? A student is not above his teacher, but everyone who is fully trained will be like his teacher." I think that means that after a few days of me toting you around Amsterdam, you will know it well enough to get your own self around. Or something like that. And let me just apologize in advance for the days I show up on your doorstep in the U.S. wearing my bad habits like a fur coat, smelling like a rotten fish. Thanks, Susan, for a wonderful visit. Now I have to finish cleaning up and getting ready for our next visitors!