Africa is For List Lovers
Africa is For List Lovers. O.K. It’s not the catchiest slogan, but it’s my blog, so my rules. I’m excited to be back to writing about my travels and to traveling. And I’m especially excited to be able to finally say I’ve been to Africa. Africa is a great place to explore if - like me - you are a list lover. I love a good checklist to help keep me on schedule every day. And I read every single Best Of list. Best T.V. Shows of 2025? Or Best of All Time? Or even Best Shows My Friend Deb Likes? I devour all of them.
So on a trip in which lists are part of the itinerary, I’m a natural. I had heard of the term The Big Five before, from friends who had been on safari and came back with photos and bragging rights. But I never knew exactly who was on that list, and why. So join me as we explore Africa together. I promise that even if you don’t love a list, you will enjoy the ride.
Just in case you are as ignorant about the geography of Africa as I was, here is a map to help you follow our journey from Cape Town, to Zimbabwe, to Tanzania and finally to Rwanda.
I must admit I actually wasn’t so sure when Peter first proposed the idea of going to Africa that I would enjoy the ride. But eventually, I swept aside (most of) my fears. I thought of my 94-year-old mom, an intrepid traveler who made it to China, Russia, and India among other far-flung places, but never to Africa. I could travel for her. And I listened to Molly Tuttle, who told me to, “Take the journey/No matter where it starts or where it ends/Take the journey/Someday you'll make it back home again.” I didn’t learn until we returned home that the word “safari” means “journey” in Swahili. So the song is perfect in every way.
And despite some tiny scary moments when I wondered it that “someday” would become “never”, I did make it home. So here I am living to tell the tale of our adventures.
Even before we left for Africa, there were lists and lists to check off. Seven vaccines in my arm? Check. Three visas to wave around when we entered Zimbabwe, Tanzania, and Rwanda? Check. Twenty-three days worth of anti-malaria pills? Check. A never-ending list of items causing pre-travel anxiety? Check.
The first stop on our Africa adventure was Cape Town, South Africa. As promised by many of our friends and family, Cape Town was stunning and a lovely spot to get over our jet lag.
The drive down the coast reminded me of California. The mountain, the blues, the greens. Oh my!
I’m not sure if a trip to several wineries just outside Cape Town, in Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, was a good cure for jet lag, but it was wonderful nonetheless. We started our day bright and early at 10:30 a.m. with a champagne tasting. Our guide brought us to several other wineries. With my champagne and wine-induced bravado, I was able to use my knowledge of Dutch to understand Afrikaans, the language spoken in South Africa. Or maybe it just seemed that way to me.
From South Africa, we flew to Zimbabwe, to Victoria Falls. The mist from the powerful falls is so intense that it feels like a downpour. Please enjoy our stylish rainwear. I’m thinking the young Italian couple who took the photo wished they could look equally chic. There is nothing like standing next to these monstrous waterfalls to make you feel really small, but in a good way.
And since this post is about lists, let me tell you I couldn’t understand - even after our guide explained - if Victoria Falls is or is not on the list of the Seven Wonders of the World. I think it’s actually one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, but let’s not quibble with the labels. Those falls are wondrous.
“You and I have memories
Longer than the road that stretches out ahead
Two of us wearing raincoats
Standing solo in the sun.”
Thank you to the Beatles for always having my back when it comes to finding just the right lyrics to fit my photos.
From Zimbabwe, we flew to Tanzania for the safari portion of the trip. This was where the list-making reached its glorious heights.
I learned from our safari guide that The Big Five is a list of the five most difficult animals for hunters to hunt on foot: the lion, leopard, elephant, rhinoceros, and cape buffalo. Needless to say, a term that is about hunting and killing animals is problematic nowadays. And also, why the need to elevate the Top Five over other animals? What about zebras and giraffes? Cheetahs? Don’t you want to meet up with them when you are out on safari? I sure did. And, by the way, although the zebras look really cute all nestled together, the pose is not just for the tourists, It’s a protective way to stand for long periods and look in every direction for predators.
Despite my extensive pre-travel lists, I wasn’t prepared for how awe-inspiring it was to be in the presence of so many beautiful creatures just strolling around and (mostly) ignoring us. I loved how the guides all communicated via walkie-talkie to share their animal sightings. Then our guide Jamal, a wealth of information about all things animal and Africa, would speed off to try to get us close to wherever the water buffalo, rhino, or other precious gem was hiding. Inside my head, I heard zippy music like this when he gunned the engine and we flew off.
When our guide pulled out his own camera with a telephoto lens, I knew our rhino sighting was a big deal. They are notoriously shy. And thank goodness, because their reputation for being introverts means I get to bring in the PoInter Sisters now.
It turns out that there are other lists to help you organize your trip. The Ugly Five (the hyena, vulture, warthog, wildebeest, and maribou stork). The Small Five (the elephant shrew, ant lion, rhinoceros beetle, buffalo weaver and leopard tortoise). This need to categorize and rate everything might just be some basic human need. Or maybe a clever marketing ploy to attract the kind of type A traveler who insists on bragging about which lists he completed in record time. I prefer to think of it as a handy tool to keep your animals organized in your busy mind. I also liked to pretend that the animals were in on the joke, sliding out from behind trees just when we thought we wouldn’t see more animals that day. They wanted to give us something to talk about when we got back to the lodge, or back to our families in the U.S.
For the most part, you stay inside your truck on safari. But Peter and I did say “yes” to this early morning walking safari. One of our guides was toting a gun, so I felt almost safe.
We were grateful to be able to see the zebras and wildebeests begin their migrations to…I was never quite sure. Further west? South? I do know they leave when the grass is gone, and they go in search of food. And of course, it’s not just a migration with a lower case “m”, but The Great Migration. Because who would care if it wasn’t the best? The wildebeests made quite a racket as they moved out of the area, causing a long traffic jam out there on the Serengeti.
A lot of folks asked us - both before and after the trip - why Africa? I give most (O.K. all) of the credit to Peter for suggesting and planning this journey. He has always loved going to zoos to stare at and photograph animals. And likes to tell the tale (true or tall: you be the judge) about the time his five-year-old self nearly snuck under the bars of the lion cage at the Bronx Zoo, saved only by the quick reflexes of his father, who grabbed his ankle and dragged him back to safety. It wasn’t until after we got home and I started to write this blog that I realized some tiny hidden part of me had also always secretly dreamed about this trip.
I thought back to my early experiences with animals. Sure I tolerated those trips to the Trenton Zoo where the monkey house smelled…well, like you might imagine a monkey house in Trenton, N.J. might smell. There were the visits to that same zoo where some scraggly deer - left to manage by themselves outside - nosed up to the sagging fence and begged for food. I put whatever we were feeding them in my outstretched hand, hoping that this time I’d have the confidence to let them eat out of my hand (literally). But at the last minute, I always got scared and flung the food through the fence.
And I used that same flinging technique when we visited an elephant refuge in Zimbabwe.
But no, it was not these in-person encounters that fostered my love of animals. Instead, it was the movies and books. A special shout out to Clarence the Cross-Eyed Lion, which if you are too young, or didn’t catch it on the big screen, was a classic 60’s film premise in which an animal is smarter then his human friends. Clarence (a lion who is cross-eyed) dons a professor’s thick black glasses and voila, he is a beloved icon. Don’t even get me started on Mr. Ed. Good Lord, how I loved that show. I do realize that for those of you interested in the Africa section of the blog, I have lost you. But I’m quite sure some of you are just as interested in the movie and T.V. trivia of the 60’s as I am, and so this section is a welcome detour from your safari.
Or Doctor Doolittle, a movie staring Rex Harrison who sang-talked the title song and made it so much easier for my seven-year-old self to sing along to lyrical masterpieces like this one: “If people asked me, ‘Can you speak rhinoceros?’ I'd say, ‘Of courserous, can't you?’ “ I guess this is where the real desire to visit Africa originated. I dreamed of finding a whole new animal audience willing to let me learn their languages. Here is Sammy Davis singing the song of my dreams. It’s about as preposterous a cover as you could ever conjure up.
Just one of the many animal books I knew and loved as a kid. I was ready to move to Yorkshire (wherever that was) and set up shop as a vet.
Time for our last stop in Africa: Rwanda. The trip from Tanzania involved a smaller plane than I like to find myself on. But it was full - a term I use loosely, since it only fit 12 people - of other people from the towns surrounding Somerville. A small world indeed. We were way more than 900 miles from home, but I love this song. Talk about a singer who looks nothing like her singing voice tells me she should look.
We really enjoyed our day in Kigali, the capital of Rwanda, but that was just the appetizer. The feast came when we arrived at Volcanoes National Park for our gorilla trek. Not only were we not in a safari jeep, but we were hiking for two hours to reach the point where we would see “our” gorilla family. Through mud. And up and down rocky terrain. With gardening gloves on so we wouldn’t get thorns in our hands when we had to move the thick jungle brush aside. Were it not for Vestine, the porter/angel who walked with me, I would still be on that mountain.
Still, the trek was worth every slippery step. We spent an hour with our gorilla friends, who occasionally glanced up from their daily routine of grooming and eating to look at us with a combination of boredom and mild curiosity. Very mild. We - Peter and me and the six sturdy German travelers who were assigned to our trekking group - were mesmerized by our gorilla friends. Our guide had instructed us on how to say, “We are kind people who are just here to watch you. Please let us admire you and please don’t hurt us,” in gorilla language, which was a series of guttural grunts. Once again, my Dutch came in very handy. The gorillas must have understood us, because they didn’t seem troubled by our presence, even if we were only ten feet away. The Germans, on the other hand, seemed a little troubled when we introduced ourselves as Americans. When we reassured them that we definitely didn’t vote for “him” and definitely didn’t support his policies, they smiled and relaxed. I think the gorillas did too.
“Count the days I'm gone
Forget reachin' me by phone
Because I promise I'll be gone for a while”
(The world misses you Sly.)
I learned some fun facts from the Dian Fossey Gorilla Center, which we visited after we were back on flat, dry, solid ground. One is that gorillas have black teeth and tongues from all the tannins in their plants-only diet. The other fun fact is that gorillas laugh when they are having a good time. Just two more details that made me love our gorilla relatives.
There is so much more to tell - the kindness and gentle patience of the people we met every where we went, the delicious food, the coffee we roasted ourselves, and then drank - but I feel like I should stop while I’m ahead. My iPhone photos don’t really do justice to the beauty of the animals and the landscape. I can send you a link so you can see Peter’s stunning photos, if you’d like. And if you ever want to go to Africa, just ask us for our lists. We are happy to share. I think you’ll love the journey as much as we did.