Dorothy, We're Not in New Jersey Anymore!
It's hip these days to say you are traveling off the beaten path. It was even the theme of our most recent American Women's Club meeting. Most of us don't want to admit we only visit the recommendations on typical tourist lists, whether Trip Advisor or Rick Steves. Some of us want to be the very first to discover the greatest, tucked-away-in-an-alley restaurant, or the to-die-for bakery. The problem is that often until you have trodden the beaten path, you aren't ready to get off it. And there's a reason that path is so beaten down: it's because the things on it are usually well worth seeing.
When you think of the Netherlands, you might think of tulips, cheese, and windmills. I know I do! So although I do love a chance to get on my bike, my feet, or the train to seek out new places, I have spent some time this spring at the biggest tourist attractions in the area. And loved every minute!
First on my to-do list was tulips, and that meant a trip to Keukenhof, the flower gardens and fields in Lisse, a village about a 30 minute drive from Amsterdam. One thing you need to know about Keukenhof is that among the expat community, there is a fair amount of angst and anxiety involved in the visit. "When are you going to Keueknhof? Have you been to Keukenhof yet?" and that sort of worried talk abound here in the early spring. I fell right in with that buzz, googling advice for how to get there (via tram, then bus, then a walk). Yes, we have been proud of our car-less status here, but when our friend Tift offered to drive one Saturday in April, we jumped at the chance. Like, Blanche DuBois in A Streetcar Named Desire, I, too, have "often depended on the kindness of strangers", or, as in this case, friends. I nearly fainted (didn't Blanche do that, too?) when my Keukenhof mates (Tift and Peter) decided we needed to push off at 7:30 to beat the crowds. Those who know me well know that I like to take my time on a Saturday morn. So it will give you some idea of just how excited I was to visit those flower gardens when I tell you I was up and ready by 7:30.
The word keukenhof means "kitchen garden". The gardens were originally a farm-to-table set up, albeit a very lavish one, created back in the 15th century by Princess Jacqueline of Bavaria. The park got a major facelift in the 19th century, when it was redesigned with English gardens (by the same chap, and his son, who designed Vondel Park, the large park near our apartment). Fast forward to 1949, when a group of enterprising flower bulb exporters came up with the brilliant idea of using the estate as a park to showcase spring flowers. Now there are 7 million bulbs in bloom (not just tulips, but also hyacinths, daffodils, lilies, and orchids, among others). Tulips are, however, the prom queen here, with 800 varieties for you to oogle. The gardens cover an area of 32 hectares. No idea how big that is? Well, welcome to my world, oh ye of little memory for the metric system. That's about 79 acres. They say Keukenhof is the largest flower garden in the world. They also say it's the biggest tourist attraction in the Netherlands. I wasn't able to verify either claim. Who cares?
I really did feel like I had gone over the rainbow while wandering through those flower gardens. With all the build-up, I was afraid I would be disappointed. Actually, it was even more magical than I could have imagined. And, while I'm in the process of confessing, I never knew until I met Peter in 1986, that the Wizard of Oz begins in black and white, and blossoms into color when they enter Oz. Really! That's what happens when you grow up with a black and white T.V.
With a day of flower gazing under my belt, I could move on to the next big Dutch tourist symbol: cheese. As usual, I only half paid attention to the invitation from the American Women's Club Excursion pal, Cristina, about coming along to Alkmaar, to see where cheese is made. I thought we were going to see cheese being made, weighed and readied for export in real life. It turns out, that this tourist destination is like Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia, with folks in period costume reenacting what the cheese-bargaining, buying, and weighing processes looked like back in the day. No worries, though. Having lost out on the chance to bring Ben and Rachel to Williamsburg when they were kids, I could finally see what this type of live historical theatre was like. After a 30 minute train ride, we were a world away from Amsterdam. Alkmaar is much smaller, and less crowded, except near the cheese market. The market is only open on Fridays, from April to the beginning of September. It was brimming with tourists and, glory be, with cheese samples.
Other than hosting the cheese market, Alkmaar is a charming Dutch town with canals, beautiful old churches, and even a one-street Red Light district. Our tour guide spoke Dutch-lish (Eng-utch?), which meant he spoke English with a heavy Dutch accent, and if he didn't know a word in English, he simply substituted a Dutch word without missing a beat. So I think there is a Red Light street, and that cows have several stomachs, but I'm just not sure. I may have to head back to the Alkmaar Kaas (Cheese) Museum to fact-check.
Last on my hit parade for major Dutch symbols was the windmill. How could I pass up a chance on National Windmill Day to visit a windmill? On sunny Mother's Day, I pedaled to a windmill in Amsterdam, and got my windmill fix. There is a nearby village, Zaanse Schans, with rows and rows of working windmills, a clog factory, and a pancake restaurant. I'm saving that for when visitors come. Clogs and pancakes sound like an awesome combination to me.
With my tulip, cheese, and windmill excursions under my belt, I am now ready to tackle the more off-the-beaten-path spots. My recent excursions may have been to the most beaten-down of tourist spots, but I have come to realize that before you can take the road less-travelled, you have to get to know the main drags. With my sense of direction, I will need to allot extra travel time when I seek out these tucked-away spots. Stay tuned for news about more exotic locales where I singlehandedly bring the median age up several decades just by walking in the door. That doesn't bother me anymore. No matter where you roam, there's a place for all of us.