I used to stand back in wonder at the complicated scheduling that my friend Sabrina engaged in when she visited from Texas for the holidays. Every minute was accounted for, and it always seemed Sabrina left N.J. more exhausted, after a so-called vacation, than when she arrived. Little did I know this would someday be my life. Flying back to N.J. for a scant five days for Thanksgiving involved a serious amount of planning, and some understanding friends and family. Just when we were feeling comfortable with one another, it was time for me to head off to my next gig. And in the limited time I had, I couldn't see everyone. Frustrating. I realized that for the next few years, this is what travel to the U.S. will be like. Reconnecting to family over the holidays got me thinking about how people develop holiday traditions, and how hard it is to acclimate yourself to new ones.

My first taste of a new holiday tradition began in November, with St. Martin's (Sint-Maarten's) Day. Luckily, our Dutch teacher gave us a heads up that come November 11, children would be knocking on our door with hand-made paper lanterns, hoping to receive candy in return for singing a song. The holiday celebrates the beginning of harvest time. Every time the door bell rang, Casey barked so loud, I was afraid he would scare away the singers. Luckily, they were not deterred. They looked every bit as eager for their candy as kids in the U.S. do, come Halloween. And every single group of kids sang their song from start to finish. I couldn't help but be charmed...and then I ran out of candy and had to turn off the lights and hide.

Close on the heels of Sint-Maarten came the arrival of Sinterklaas and Zwarte Piet. Sinterklaas, also known as Sint Nicolaas, has a white beard and wears red and white, but unlike Santa Claus, he is not chubby and jolly. He arrives in the Netherlands by boat from Spain in mid-November and then travels around to figure out which children have been naughty and which nice. The holiday was celebrated on the evening of December 5 this year, and this is when children receive their gifts, not on Christmas.

Some of you may have heard about the controversy surrounding Sinterklaas's helpers, Zwarte Pieten. These fellows function like elves, helping Sinterklaas out with his chores, dispensing candy, and making kids happy. The problem is that Zwarte Piet is dressed in blackface. As you can imagine, this has caused quite a ruckus in the Netherlands and elsewhere. Over the past few weeks, I have talked to Americans, Dutch, Brits, and anyone else who cared to weigh in. The Dutch people I asked about the tradition were happy to talk. They explained that the tradition began centuries ago, and that Zwarte Piet is black because he came down the chimney and got soot on his cheeks. Some don't understand why people in other countries are weighing in and why they are offended. Here's a clip from the documentary Zwart als Roet about the controversy. A Dutch filmmaker walked through London dressed as Zwarte Piet, and the results are similar to what you might expect if he did the same in the U.S. In his customary fashion, even Russell Brand weighs in on the debate.

There was even a petition called a "Pietitie" on Facebook last year that called for getting rid of the more offensive aspects of the celebration. The petition got over 2 million "likes." Some parades have eliminated the black face, and have the Pieten march in purple, pink, and green face instead.

Here is a poster telling you when you can meet up with Sinterklaas or Zwarte Piet.

Here, Zwarte Piet is even asked to help sell the lingerie.

Honestly, I had a hard time with all of this. It's hard to reconcile what we in our hearts feel is inappropriate as Americans with what the Dutch have grown up with as a tradition. I found myself not wanting to openly criticize what my host country was doing, while hoping upon hope they soon realize that if even a small percentage of the country is offended, then maybe it is time to rethink this tradition. Of course, at the time of this holiday, the U.S. was reeling from events in Ferguson and S.I. I couldn't help but think we may not decorate our holiday displays with people and dolls in blackface, but we are certainly no shining example of how to handle race relations. It will be interesting to see how the Dutch resolve this issue in upcoming years.

Unlike some aspects of Sinterklaas, there is no debate about the delicious sweets that are part of the holiday tradition. Dutch children put their shoes in front of the fireplace or by the door and when Sinterklaas arrives, the children may find candy or a gift in the shoe. Chocoladeletters, or chocolate letters with the child's first name are a prized gift for children who were well-behaved. I guess that means Peter and I have been well-behaved, because that is what our Dutch teacher gave us!

Our Dutch teacher, Nelleke, already clearly knows the way to my heart! — Our Dutch teacher, Nelleke, already clearly knows the way to my heart!

Teeny tiny little spice cookies, called pepernoten, are often served at this time of year. I don't have my own photo of them, simply because they disappear instantly after they appear on the side of my coffee saucer.

Pepernoten are only about 1 cm across. Doll-house cookies. You can't eat just one, even though that is usually all you are served with your coffee. — *Pepernoten* are only about 1 cm across. Doll-house cookies. You can't eat just one, even though that is usually all you are served with your coffee.

And these healthy treats are called Olliebollen, which to this Jersey Girl taste like fried dough that you would get on the boardwalk.  Like giant round doughnuts, they are stuffed with treats like ginger, pear, cherries and rum/raisin. To… — And these healthy treats are called *Olliebollen,* which to this Jersey Girl taste like fried dough that you would get on the boardwalk. Like giant round doughnuts, they are stuffed with treats like ginger, pear, cherries and rum/raisin. To add insult to injury, they are "dusted" (hit with a blizzard) of powdered sugar.

In Maplewood/South Orange, where we lived for over 20 years, December meant not just Christmas trees and lights (although there were certainly a lot of those) but also hanukiah (more commonly known as menorahs) and the occasional Kwanzaa display. I have not seen one Hanukkah symbol around Amsterdam, and have heard no mention of Kwanzaa. In some ways, December here looks the way things did during my childhood. I remember my Dad driving us on Christmas eve to Chambersburg, the then largely Italian section of Trenton, to see all of the Christmas lights. I loved it, just like I love to wander around Amsterdam to see the canals all lit up, and the sparkling trees both indoors and out. Still, it would be nice to see a few hanukkiah when I peek inside Dutch windows.

It seems that Christmas here is a bit less commercial and a bit less over-the-top than the American-style holiday. I have not seen any huge inflated plastic Christmas trees or reindeer. Maybe that's because we are in the city, and not in an area with lawns. We asked a Dutch work colleague of Peter's about the difference between American and Dutch Christmas. He said that Sinterklaas is when children receive gifts, so Christmas is more of a time to get together with family, and have a big dinner, and breakfast or lunch the next day. He added that recently, more people are giving gifts to adults, not just to children, a hint that the American way may be crossing the pond.

These are some neon trees outside our local posh flower store. — These are some neon trees outside our local posh flower store.

This is the display inside the posh flower store.

This is our neighborhood. Because Sinterklaas comes in early December, these lights went up in early November. I love them not just because they sparkle, but also because they make it easier to cross the street when the cars, bikes, and pedestrians … — This is our neighborhood. Because Sinterklaas comes in early December, these lights went up in early November. I love them not just because they sparkle, but also because they make it easier to cross the street when the cars, bikes, and pedestrians all converge to make a perfect storm of traffic at dinner time.

The Christmas tree at the Rijksmuseum is truly environmentally friendly. It's a hologram!

This is what the canals look like at night way before the holidays. This is a city that really likes its lights! — This is what the canals look like at night way before the holidays. This is a city that really likes its lights!

It's easy to feel a bit like an outsider at this time of year when you are Jewish. This year, that feeling is compounded because we are so far away from most of our family and friends. This year, it's even more important that we carry on our family traditions. Both Ben and Rachel will be here for the tail end of Hanukkah. Then we will begin what we hope will be a Drucker-Vine tradition of traveling together from our base camp in Amsterdam, this year heading to Rome.

Tradition was also on my mind when I decided to head back to the U.S. for Thanksgiving. I needed to reconnect with family, and to do things I was used to doing, after three solid months of doing every thing for the very first time. So after a wonderful Thanksgiving with Peter's family, I headed down with Ben and Rachel to see my mom, my siblings, and their children. Sadly, Peter had to stay in Amsterdam and work. We were able to carry on the most important Vine tradition, which is laughing together. Here's a photo of my sister, who kept us laughing over a day-after-Thanksgiving dinner together that I hope will be a tradition for years to come!

Don't ask! Suffice it to say that my cheeks hurt from laughing. What more could you want from your family?

Happy Holidays from the Drucker/Vines! Here's to celebrating traditions both new and old in the coming year! — Happy Holidays from the Drucker/Vines! Here's to celebrating traditions both new and old in the coming year!